Teaching!

The mediocre teacher tells.
The good teacher explains.
The superior teacher demonstrates.
The great teacher inspires.
~ William Ward

... so my hope is that I "inspired" some of the graduate students at Srinakharinwirot University last night. I spoke about the components of Creating a Healthy Classroom. Indeed, it was a wonderful opportunity ... quite revitalizing actually!!!

Temple day!

This weekend we had a unique and incredible "temple experience" with Sam; she spent 3 months here, at Wat Phra Dhammakaya, before starting the Rotary Peace Fellow Program with us in Bangkok!! How lucky we were to go to one of the largest Buddhist temple in the world!! I couldn't get over that they had 80 acres of property. We were transported in (what Sam calls) "monk-mobiles;" The construction that was going on was incredible, yet there was a feeling of peace - a surrealistic peace. The temple in the background has the maximum capacity to hold 1,000,000 monks! And the top (a.k.a. the "chedi" which is golden in color and looks like a space ship) is actually made up of a million titanium and gold-coated Bhudda images, made of silicon bronze. A donation of 25,000 Baht (c. $840) will give you the right to dedicate the merit, from your donation, by having your name (or a loved one's name) put on one of the Buddhas. Of course, the Temple's size, appearance and commercialization has caused a bit of controvery, but check it out ... Wat Phra Dhammakaya http://www.dhammakaya.net/

We had a brief tour from Luang Phi Pasura and then a lesson regarding the importance of meditation. Listen, as he relates our mind to a glass of water! (You know me and my love for visuals! ... very effective in teaching). He stressed the importance of keeping our mind "clear and bright" - especially before bedtime as to go to bed with a sort of "clean slate." Some pointers ... sit comfortably with your right hand cupped in your left hand. Breathe deeply and pretend to have swallowed a star, thinking "clear and bright ... clear and bright ... clear and bright."


Luang Phi Pasura and meditation



After we went to the Dhammakaya Chapel









And then we had the honor of visiting with the Vice Abbot, Luang Phaw Datta. Here, he was telling us that we need to take religion and culture into account when dealing with conflict. Although he spoke English well, here he is speaking Thai.


Vice Abbot Luang Phaw Datta

After almost two hours of Buddhist teaching from the Vice Abbot (Manisha and I sat on the floor the entire time) he gave us a bundle of books. When we took them from the abbot, I had to remember not to touch him!!! So I extended both of my arms, close together, and he dropped them onto my forearms.

He was very optimistic and hopeful, stating that "problems can be solved 'case by case.'" This reminded me of Governor Patrick's speeches of building upon a plan to stop crime "brick by brick." When I asked him how long he had been a monk, his response was 39 years! When I told him it was my age, he said (grinning and giggling) that I was his "Monk Father!" His mannerisms were so sincere; he was kind, calm, humble, reflective and had a great sense of humor above all. His grin is one that I truly won't forget either. It was an AWESOME day at the Temple - an amalgam of traditionalism and modernity!!!

Ian's farewell

Remember, "it's not goodbye, but until we meet again - 'mate.'"

Ian had to return to Indianapolis due to unforseen circumstances. Although our group will not be the same, we will continue to include him in class sessions via Skype (in this regard, I've really embraced technology ;o) But still we will miss him terribly ... his philosophical thoughts, love for Confucius, Australian sense of humor, desire to always find "Good News" in the world ...

To "celebrate" Ian's participation in such an amazing program (because we definitely didn't want it to be sad), we went out to dinner at Lupini Park/Night Bizaar where I had fried crabs - AGAIN! Yummy!!!! And, later we returned to campus and sang songs at the cultural center.

Here are Charlie (Australia) and Martin (Argentina) playing their guitars ....


Although somber ... it was a wonderful night hanging out with the "U.N.!"

Miscommunication ;o)

On a brighter note ... Cait McMahon, our professor of Conflict Trauma, showed us this video clip in regard to cultural sensitivity or cross cultural miscommunication .... This made me laugh so much, especially the second time around!

Is life fair?

Our professor today, Cait McMahon, showed us this clip today. We were studying the causes, effects and triggers of trauma. Truama (from the Greek word wound) is something that doesn't go away - EVER! The permanency of trauma, especially with this generation in Palestine, is horrific! This clip is absolutely tragic and sad, but again, reality ...



The effect this video had on each individual in my class varied as it depended on what work or expereinces they've had, especially with children. Of course, I was sad - very sad ... But when I turned around to Manisha sniffling, only to see her eyes uncontrollably shed a constant stream of tears, I understood why she felt the way she felt. The video triggered images, voices and stories of children infected with HIV/AIDS. Manisha has seen children lying dead on the streets of Mozambique, has seen others parentless and days away from dying, and has touched others whose skin was covered with soars. One particular three-year old boy, Pinto, kept flashning back in her mind. She recalled caressing his face and touching his hair, only to have it come out in clumps ...

Here is a clip from her blog ...

Children Coping with Trauma
I am posting this while I am in class learning about the impact of trauma on children going through war. This video was shown in the class and it brought tears to me eyes. It took me back to my interview with the a family of six children in Mozambique, who had lost their parents to AIDS. And it reminded me of the coping mechanisms they used to survive. The 13 year old sister who would prostitute herself to feed her little siblings. I had asked her that time, why was she doing this knowing that it would expose her to HIV and kill her like her parents and she told me, either way, she and her family will die. At least she was preventing her family from dying of hunger. I thought it was a very powerful statement made by a 13 year old. (Manisha Javeri 8/27/10)

These children (particularly the Palestinian four year-old in the video) aren't children!!!!! They've been completely robbed from their childhood, a concept that the majority - if not all of us, will never be able to understand. How lucky we are!!!

Crabs and Fish

Tonight, I ate crabs and ... fish nibbled on me!! Andrezza, Vicky, her husband Lapo, and I had an "Italian speaking night" at the night bazaar under an enormous tent during an intense rain storm accompanied with awesome bright and vibrant lightning strikes and occasional bursts of thunder. (Remember, it's rainy season here in Thailand). We feted at this dining hall offering Thai cuisine. I ate fresh papaya salad and delicious fried crabs! A unique "fish spa massage" followed our fabulous dinner and Italian conversation at the Night Bazaar.

Here is Vicky (from Northern Ireland and living in Switzerland for UNHCR - a UN refugee agency. She's worked in Somalia, Sri Lanka, Afghanistan...) and Andrezza. Andrezza works for UNESCO in Paris. She is a PROUD Brazilian, who talks like an Italian (she holds an Italian passport) and dresses like a Parisian all of the time! Both she and her husband of two years have been living in Paris for the last seven year. She's dynamic, passionate and fun!

I feasted on fried crabs!!! They were absolutely scrumptious!!! In fact, we're planning to go back this weekend!

I swore that I would never do this!

Ughhhhh ... fishes - hungry ones! - all over my legs and feet and toes ....

Vicky's reaction was priceless!! Too bad you can't hear her screaming!!!!

My reaction was no better!!!!!!

Between Vicky and I wailing (loudly I might add), we attracted some tourists who took our picture. Can you see the fake smiles ... well, maybe not Andrezza's!

As I would always tell my students, IT'S NOT GOOD, IT'S NOT BAD ... IT'S JUST DIFFERENT! - So don't judge anything, or deprive yourself of an experience by saying it's bad and ... never, EVER say "never!"

I ate well as the crabs were ABSOLUTELY delicious and ... the fish ate well too while they were "massaging" my feet! It was a very interesting and delightful evening overall! :o) You'll have to try it.

This world ...

... "our world" has much to teach me!

So every day when I come “home” from class, I stare at my world map and wonder off into deep thought … “this world has much to teach me.” Whether it’s Tunisia being a peaceful country in comparison to other countries that are primarily Muslim or educating youngsters about religion in schools – getting “out of the box,” or (as my friends and students often hear me say) “off the hamster wheel,” has been eye opening, jaw dropping … simply awesome!! Today, we got into groups and (my group) evaluated the field of education according to its "integrity." Without getting into too much detail, I came out of it feeling that to some degree we're all part of corruption and control - regardless of the field that we're in ... Sad, isn't it? But ... it's the harsh reality!

Each day I am awe struck at the world’s situation, what we have done in terms of destruction, the benevolent actions/results that have emerged as a result of conflict and the things that we, as human beings, have not done.

This world does, indeed, have much to teach me … and much to teach you!

Fresh air!

This weekend Neung, Joy, Manisha and I escaped city-lights, honking horns, buzzing tuk-tuks, smog and more smog, hundreds and thousands of stores, shops and markets, massage parlors, international food establishments offering any type of edible morsel from crickets and dry fish to Dunkin Donuts tiramisu donuts (yes, I tried one!) and fresh-cut exotic fruit!! We went to the town of Samut Songkramm, more specifically to "Ro Song Park" - the birthplace of King Rama II.

Ahhh ... It was WONDERFUL to see a multitude of dragonflies swarming above a maintained traditional Thai house or intently observe huge ants marching in and out of their "home" high up on a tree branch. I've never seen anything like it! Look closely ... can you see the ants climbing on the branch toward their "leaf-dwelling?" My immediate thought was, "wow!, how did these ants work together to maneuver the leaves in such a way as to create their 'home?'" My second thought was, "why can't human beings - as the superior species - work in a similar 'harmonious' manner?"

Check out the beautiful woman (pictured above) selling grilled squid on her boat at the floating market. And here is another woman selling fruit; every person sells one item (whether it's fruit, fish, vegetables, coffee, etc.). Authentic foods and unique handicraft items are arranged in little stands that are accessible via a boardwalk. It was awesome to see, or simply experience, while enjoying the positive energy of people eating, walking, listening to music, shopping...
At one point, I saw a bunch of older Thai women sitting by the canal eating ice cream! They looked like they were in heaven!! How could they not be? :o) You all know my love for ice cream and it being one of the major food groups (next to fruits & vegetables)! Anyway, as I was walking on the board walk and could not help but look at them (some people would consider it staring); one woman looked at me... smiled... widened her eyes... licked her ice cream... grinned at me... and gestured me to partake! I smiled back (big smile)... wai-ed her... and gave her the thumbs up!! Non-verbals are amazing!!!!! Again ... we all smile in the same language and it's pretty safe to say that ice cream is loved and savored by all!
Here we are ... Neung, me, Joy and Manisha! Four women representing different countries (Thailand, Philippines, Italy, United States and India), different cultures, different religious backgrounds, etc. Together, we had an awesome afternoon!!!!

Sunday, I went to temple at Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha). The ambiance of peace and environment of worship that surrounds you is surreal ....

In the following video, take a look at the feet of the Reclining Buddha as they're decorated with mother of pearl inlay. Although I didn't go to Wat Arun this weekend, I will definitely return as it is my favorite landmark in Bangkok. Enjoy ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhRJ41gMAyo

Tell Me Why

This video opened up our lecture this morning on Peace Building in Southern Thailand... (please listen to all of it as to understand my morning, and more importantly, what I have learned ...



… keep in mind the diverse backgrounds and ages of my fellow “Peace Fellows” …

So this morning, one of my classmates “disappeared’ within the first minute of this video being played. When she didn’t return for some time, I became concerned and left the class only to follow the sound of soft sobs … Holding a tear-saturated, crumpled tissue, while standing in the open patio of the second floor of our Center, she began to tell me about feelings that had resurfaced from three decades ago. Hearing those three simple words – Tell Me Why – the same words that she would tirelessly reiterate as an imperative sentence to her government officials (who were implementing harsh control over student rallies) provoked unexpected emotions. She explained that many friends became, “victims of enforced disappearances,” as she called them, as well as victims of torture and victims to “murder.” With tears streaming down her porcelain-like skin and in between sobs, she painfully expressed how much she missed her friends – those who were murdered, those who disappeared. This, surely, was a fraction of what she experienced as a clever, sharp and intelligent student activist who was actually thrown in jail with other student activists who were participating in anti-government rallies throughout the years preceding the implementation of Martial Law.

Short story: During this time period (thirty years ago), one of her former classmates and dear friends – who was a very intelligent person, exhibiting exceptional leadership qualities – , at the age of 28, was killed. Officials from her country in southeast Asia felt he would be a threat to the government …. They resolved the matter by not only beheading him (a common way of killing someone even today), but by actually delivering his head to the president at the time on a silver platter.

Seeing my friend sob was difficult because I, in no way shape or form, could comfort her. I also couldn’t empathize with her on any front, except to tell her that she needed to cry as she was re-visiting a deep part of her past as a mature woman – not as the young grad student that she was thirty years ago. She referred to that dark period in her youth as “living on the streets” for 16 years, fighting for justice along with her entire family.

Since then, she has become a wife, a mother, a grandmother, a leading political-civic figure, a link to the business sector, a Peace Fellow – many things. There’s a lot to be said for that, but getting on (what I call) the “hamster wheel of life” also allows one (anyone) to tuck away those feelings – unintentionally, of course. So, when you’re unexpectedly confronted with them and have a different lens to look through (due to life’s experiences and the passing of “time”), the intensity and outpouring of feelings of regret, anger, deep sadness, etc. and more importantly, the fact that those words (Tell Me Why) are still not answered as the imperative statement that she intended is disconcerting. Her uncontrollable emotions this morning were from hearing those words, through the video, and reiterating them herself as an interrogative statement. She’ll never know why, never forget her friends, never understand – EVER! (sigh) … the injustice...

As my friend and I were chatting in the open patio area, the cleaning lady, Noi, (who enthusiastically greets each fellow with a smile or a wave because she knows a few words in English) got emotional from seeing my friend sob. When I saw her in passing an hour later, she looked at me, pulled out her cloth handkerchief and said, “cry … same-same.” Of course, I gave her a hug. Her tiny frame disappeared in my compassionate embrace … Experiences like this reaffirm that we DO all cry, laugh, smile, and wave in the same language, so why, “tell me why” do we treat each other with such cruelty?

(I’d like to preface my concluding thoughts by apologizing for my frustrating tone). The violent behavior that my friend experienced is not seen as much in the U.S., but Americans should be aware that it does happen in other parts of the world. (FYI: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8349771.stm ) If you can’t do something directly to improve a tragic situation, then at least tell others about what is going on in other areas on our Mother Earth. After all, we live in a globalized world! More importantly, you should appreciate what you have, do not complain (I, certainly, don’t want to hear it), share (many have forgotten this concept that was – hopefully – taught to us in kindergarten), and open up your heart (everyone has one and it does more than keep you alive)!

History of Politics

Chair of the National Human Rights Commission of Thailand, Amara Pongsapich, lectured this morning. She was great! To hear about the unfolding of the political situation between the red-shirts and yellow-shirts (in the last few months of this year – sort of behind the scenes) was pretty amazing! Similar to Italy, Thailand has a very unstable government, the only difference is Thailand has a monarchy. Since 1932, they’ve had 18 coups. Who does that? In 200+ years, the U.S. has had one constitution … Thailand, I repeat has had 18!!! Each time there’s a coup (which goes against the constitution), the constitution is abolished and they start from scratch! I would just “tweak it,” or the right way would be to amend it . Not so!!!! That’s not the way it goes!! Ahhh …. The complexities of government! Nonetheless, it was an informative and interesting day (yes, I just used the word interesting in reference to politics :o). After lecture, Inday and I had lunch with Ajan Amara.

Here is "Ajan" (which, by the way, means professor) Pitch Pongsawat who lectured this afternoon; he's a well-recognized Political Science professor at Chulalongkorn University who's been very dynamic and passionate in explaining the history of Thailand and has served as an excellent resource on our field visit to Chiang Mai! Ajan Pitch will also be joining us on our field visit to Phenom Phen, Cambodia in a couple of weeks.

Despite the intense lectures and long days, I’m still smiling)! The opportunity to learn has been “fan-tabulous” (word coined by my friend, Lisa Sylvia – fantastic and fabulous together)!

THANK YOU, ROTARY!!

Mail on Monday!

Happy Monday to all and thanks for the “fan mail” again Lindsay and also to you Emily!! It was a wonderful surprise! Your reactions in particular, Emily, to my experiences gave me an idea! So here it is ... for anyone who wants to send me any heartfelt reactions, realizations, thoughts, personal reflections or ah-ha moments to what I’m doing, please feel free to email or snail mail me (remember, I love “fan mail”). My idea is to compile all the comments, at some point, as a response to my unique, valuable and once-in-a-lifetime experience as a student peace fellow in Thailand.

This weekend, we went on a dinner cruise with the Rotarians. Look at the Grand Palace by night! Isn't it beautiful!? For dessert I had, for the first time, "crunchy rubies" which are water chestnuts covered in tapioca flour in a bowl with coconut milk poured over it, much like fudge on a good ole' American sundae (which I haven't had in a very, very long time)!! Needless to say, I had four helpings of crunchy rubies!

Play

In addition to learning 8 hours a day, we also have fun!! The following video is of the Grand National, led by our English professor Michael Fryer. He is leading us through a horse race in England! Listen closely ...

THE GRAND NATIONAL

We also sing! The song may sound familiar to most of you ("This Land is Your Land" by Woody Guthrie), but the words are original and were written by our American professors. Enjoy! :o)

ROTARY FELLOWS' SONG

And on a more serious note ... the reason why I'm here.

PEACE IS POSSIBLE

Mother's Day

Today (Thursday) is the Queen's birthday and also Mohther's Day Thailand. If you're wondering when is Father's Day, it's on the King's birthday - December 5. Incidentally, King Bhumipol Adulyadej was born in Cambridge, Massachusetts!!

So, yes ... Happy Mother's Day, Ma!! And speaking of mother's day, the subject of family comes up. Regardless of where you travel to, visit, sojourn or live – family is family! It had been a couple of weeks since we last spoke and we had a chance to ALL speak together via skype! I think this photo says it all!


As you can see, technology is amazing!! Here, Dino gave my mother a pink wig with movie star glasses amongst many other creative masks! It was hilarious!!Despite the fact that 12,000 miles separate us, Carlo’s sense of humor and comments, which I won’t get into, are never at a loss! Unreal! :o)

LoVe ...

By one of the classrooms at the temporary shelter was a randomly, sole-standing, dark, metal partition with a bunch of graffiti on it. Amongst the Burmese phrases (which obviously look like a bunch of symbols to me) was the English written word “LOVE” in capital letters. Regardless of the language one speaks or knows, the English word love, like a smile and a waving hand, is internationally recognized! Along with the visual image of the word love, is also the feeling that everyone, everywhere ultimately wants... At this point, I have to steal a quote by Albert Camus :o) … “It has been said that we need just three things in life: Something to do, something to look forward to and someone to love.”

This photo was taken at one of our “coffee stops” on the way back to Bangkok from Chiang Mai. I decided to wear one of the traditional shirts purchased from one of the women at the shelter; it will always remind me of my visit …

Back to school!

Back to school today with our German-born, living in Thailand professor - Jost Wagner. He was awesome!! Rather than talk to us, he spoke with us and taught us about utilizing "World Cafe," "Open Space," "Appreciative Inquiry," "Future Search," and "Scenario Building" in small or large groups with professionals in education, government, business - anything!! It was so exciting!! Some of us are actually talking about ways that we will incorporate this is our own work and communities within the 13 countries where we're from! Inspiring teachers and administrators about conflict management, mediation, student performance and issues will be very exciting! It's great to be back in class! I love school! p.s. It was also heart-warming to get "fan mail!" THANKS!!

Check out his website! www.change-initiative.com

Millipede!!!

Look at what I saw the other night when walking to get dinner?



Thank God, and Buddha, that I was looking down at the sidewalk while we were walking!!!! I can't IMAGINE what it would have been like to step on it with my flip-flop!!!! Manisha took a picture of it with my hand in the background. I tried to get as close as I could!!!!

Low-key Sunday

Although I was absolutely exhausted after my field study, it was awesome getting together with Neung and Joy for a trip to an art exhibition and lunch at a noodle shop - together with two of her Italian colleagues and her upper level Italian students. The "museum" had a beautiful open area with fountains, falls and this beautiful Buddha ...




"Friends Forever!"




Joy, Neung and I were born on the year of the dog!!



I'm so glad I asked what was it my bowl of noodles... I gently took out my "chunk of boiled blood" with my chopsticks!



This is city hall with an enormous picture of the king and queen. It's actually her birthday this Thursday!

3728 curves roundtrip

Friday afternoon we journeyed back to Chiang Mai from Mae Hong Song (1864 curves one way)! This is Martin's shirt! It took us five hours to get back to Chiang Mai!! Too bad we couldn't get "frequent 'curve' points?" Get it!? ;o)

Before our journey, we had lunch at this beautiful restaurant. I know what I want! Soup -(number 5)!

While everyone but the driver slept, I listened to my iPod, wrote in my journal and soaked in the scenery - vibrant green colors in the form of trees, corn fields, rice fields and grass. I have to add that some of the rice fields are golden-green in color (absolutely stunning)! The hills and mountains were filled with trees and the soft white mist gently blanketed some parts ... the gentle rain did not keep some farmers from selling coconuts on the roadside or others from picking rice in the fields. The vibrant clay-colored dirt reminded me a bit of Arizona ... I chuckled at one point when I saw a sign "Sharp Curve Ahead." I thought to myself - aren't they ALL sharp?!

Passing through villages, I saw students walking or riding mopeds home (four teenagers on ONE moped with no helmets) in identical uniforms! And I can't leave out the cattle that the driver had to stop for in the middle of the road. At another point, there were chickens attemping to cross too and there was an occasional dog just lying over on the side napping, I suppose. We passed a truck transporting pigs too. Incidentally, they eat TONS of pork here. I've become somewhat vegetarian! :o)

With 112 kilometers left to go Nickelback's "If Today Was Your Last Day," was playing on my iPod. The whole song is incredible, especially driving through the hills and curves of northern Thailand. Listen! :o) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maINUv2H8A0 Just want to highlight a few verses ... "Each day is a gift and not a given right. Leave no stone unturned, leave your fears behind and try to take the path less traveled by." ... And for those who haven't really traveled and to whom I've sent this song to many months ago (you know who you are ;o) "It's never too late to shoot for the stars no matter who you are! So do whatever it takes because you can't rewind a moment in this life." ... "That first step you take is the longest stride." I played it for the next hour and when Manisha woke up, I introduced her to it and Nickelback! :o)

We stopped for coffee on the way back at "Coffee in Love" ... the cutest place ...

Refugee Camp

I must preface this by saying that this blog, in particular, has been re-written from seven pages of handwritten notes, which were accumulated while on an extremely bumpy and curvy ride through the camp, others while walking and avoiding puddles, rocks, potholes, etc. and others while leaning against bamboo walls of a clinic, a laboratory and a couple of classrooms.

What are commonly referred to as refugee camps are officially called "temporary shelters" for displaced persons. Our field visit was to the Ban Mai Nai Soi Camp in Mae Hong Song (located in northern Thailand). It was a rare and unique opportunity to experience poverty, human injustice, sadness, conflict ... REALITY from these people!!

Dimensions are always good to start with – there are about 13,000 people who reside on 7 square kilometers and who cannot leave the camp at all (doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen though)!! This camp – Ban Mai Nai Soi – is only 4- 6 kilometers away from Myanmar (Burma). It took us about 20 minutes to get in from the main road via Jeep. The clay-colored dirt, tan-colored puddles of mixed mud and water, various trees (amongst them, the bamboos which were sooo tall and in some parts of our journey toward the second gate were abundant and tall enough to create a canopy) were all that was observable with an occasional rice field.



You can observe the thick green vegetation and deciduous trees (whose leaves are ENORMOUS – long enough and wide enough for me to hide under). These visuals were accompanied with the sounds of birds, crickets and cicadas.

At some points it got really steep! Fortunately, the jeep was able to just take off as we gained some grip from a random strip of concrete road, then we were back to puddles, rocks and mud, hanging on for dear life to the metal handles above our heads and on the side of the Jeep!


Once we passed the first of two gates, conversation amongst the four of us subsided without warning. While driving toward the second gate, there were a few men on mopeds buzzing by and some women/men walking and carrying empty circular wicker baskets on their backs. Later, we learned that they "unofficially" leave the camp to earn some money to feed their families because the rations (rice, sugar, beans, dried chili, cooking oil, salt, and Asia mix) are simply not enough. Some women pick veggies within the camp or weave; they later sell these items for extra money.


I'll try to capture as much as I can in words because we were forbidden to take pictures, once we crossed the second gate, where we had to present our passports and register.

View of the second gate from the inside
Back in the truck … It was a sight to see these bamboo-made homes nestled, or stacked, on the hills. They’re not allowed to use materials such as concrete and wood because a temporary shelter it cannot be made of these items. You can see the shops on the right are only made of bamboos and leaves.

We drove by a laboratory, a school and a mother holding her child (couldn’t have been more than a year old) in a dull-colored wrap. The child had a yellow smeared dot, I later found out – made of tumeric - between his eyes the size of a silver dollar and a line going down the center of his nose. This is part of their culture – a symbol of beauty - a way to identify themselves as being Burmese on Thai soil.

Our official introduction began with an enthusiastic greeting by the commander of the camp. He, along with a number of others, thoroughly educated us about the camp as well as their job/function within it. What was interesting were the different ethnicities living within the camp such as the long neck women (those with rings around their necks) or those with huge spacers as earrings. Thankfully, there are NGOs that provide for the refugees! In addition to charcoal, each adult is provided with a monthly food ration of: 15 kg rice, 1.2 kg beans, 125 grams sugar, 23 grams dried chilli, 1 litre cooking oil, 500 grams iodised salt, 0.5 kg fortified flour - period!

Rather than give you more facts and figures, which are also important, let me try to act as a digital camera. In the three hours that we sat and listened to government officials, NGOs, etc., we sat on plastic chairs that were neatly arranged on hard-packed soil where animals were roaming freely. This one particular chicken had about 10 chicks following her all pecking away at the ground as she stood watch on one leg. At one point you could hear a rooster outside of our conference area; upon hearing this, the chicks all huddled in the corner together and attached to their mother. One chick stayed right under mother hen; you could see its little beak every once in a while appear from beneath its mother’s wing. Incidentally, I bought a bunch of clothes (3 shirts and 2 skirts) for 750 baht/$25 from the women who patiently sat in the conference area for several hours waiting for our class to end, just to make a baht!

We actually had a chance to walk around. Unlike a few members from my group who have actually worked in other refugee camps, this was my first experience making it rather surreal. The conditions were awful! It made me appreciate the "simple things" even more. Random "things" like clean feet, a comfortable bed, anything I want to eat, AC!!, and on a more complicated level, access to world renowned health facilities, the opportunity to obtain a great education, the ability to work ... These people don't have this! When Vicky (Northern Ireland) and Tom (Australia) said that this camp was much better than the ones they have seen, I was horrified to think about how much worse can this get!?

To give you some idea ... After lunch, Ian and I stood outside of the "conference area" chatting and watching white and yellow butterflies fluttering around an area with small purple flowers. Off, in the not so far distance, was this young, fit man bathing himself in a gray Speedo. Obviously, there is no, absolutely NO privacy. There was no shower head, just a concrete basin with clean water and a plastic container with a handle that he would use to dump water on himself. While we were talking about our morning, this man shampooed and scrubbed himself from top to bottom, followed by rinsing, drying and putting on dry clothes - all in the open for everyone (other fellow camp dwellers, the butterflies and yes, the Rotary Fellows) to see! All I could think about was (sigh) ... how grateful I am for my privacy, my rights, my safety, my shower, my education ... Whether tangible or intangible, simple or complicated, they are basic needs! For many, they are assumed and expected - but for others, they are not!

We got back into the Jeeps and drove by some classrooms. As we drove by, I noticed all the children's faces pressed up against the bamboo "windows" smiling. I smiled and waved and as the truck moved forward, little waving hangs poked through the small grated openings and accompanied the movement of the truck - it reminded me of watching people do "the wave" at a baseball game. (Gosh, writing without pictures is tough)! I had to do everything not to begin sobbing because in the end, don't we smile and wave in the same language? If we could just smile and wave to everyone, the world could really just be a better place!!!!!

Going into the classrooms was great! Math, music, dance ... seeing those kids learning was encouraging! I noticed that the boys tend to dress in western style where the girls wear traditional dress. In music class they were all singing to the traditional Burmese songs played from two guitars.

The Commander also brought us to their medical laboratory, which consisted of one small room with one microscope and prepared slides that were used to test for malaria. Twenty members from his staff contracted the disease, but he reassured us not to worry as hadn't gotten it! The two large windows to the lab do not have glass, or blinds, or curtains - nothing! The hospital was even more eye-opening! There was a woman kneeling on a vinyl matress with her newborn ... the I.V. looked scary, not to mention the chicken running around in the adjoining room ... Like the lab, it was open!! To think that some people leave Burma to live in this camp because of better medical care.

The last area we were shown was the "departure area." Here the refugees are given instruction from luggage requirements to their "new life in the U.S." It was sort of neat (for lack of a better term) to see the American flag hanging on the wall and not too far a picture of the king and queen of Thailand.

As we were leaving, the children and older students were all walking back home from school. They could see us in the truck and as we drove back toward the exit, we reciprocated smiles, giggles, waves ... Some of the girls giggled behind their umbrellas when Ben greeted them; it was too sweet.

Without showing you pictures, I hope I've provided a snapshot of what I've seen. Moreover, I hope I conveyed to you my feelings as I walked through this temporary shelter, listened to the Burmese speak their language, saw the children who haven't experienced life beyond 7 km of bordered space, etc. I will forever remember my visit and be able to support, understand and identify with a "refugee," should our paths cross. This would not be unusual as it's a "small world!" And the U.S. accepts a maximum of 80,000 refugees from Thailand, Nepal, Uganda, Kenya - to name a few of many.

Check out this link! Sam sent it to us the other day!

http://www.theage.com.au/multimedia/world/inspiration-on-the-border/20100806-11nyz.html

A rice field right on the outskirts of the camp.

Here is the Commander of the camp standing amongst us. Ben (Ivory Coast) asked him to recall his "best and worst moment" of his job. Without hesitation he mentioned that seeing the smiles of those getting on trucks to officially leave the camp for resettlement - to obtain a better life; this was definitely a "best." His worst moments are dealing with conflict between his staff and those in the camp as it is difficult maintaining order to benefit the majority.

The following day we visited the IMO (International Organization for Migration), which allowed us to gain an understanding of the process that refugees go through to resettle to a third country! The paperwork, medical exam, cultural orientation are obvious preparations, however it is worthy to note that there are simple, simple activities of daily living that they are taught - things we wouldn't think about because we live in societies as refined and cultured individuals. Mothers of infants are taught to properly change and dispose of diapers, all are taught to use a western toilet, how to order a hamburger, and what to expect on the plane (that would also include how to get in and out of the toilet! I think a few of us can admit that getting out of them may have been challenging)! Bottom line is that they're frightened all around, but want a better life for their children! After hearing about this and seeing, first hand, where they've lived and what they've gone through, to be empathetic and be welcoming to them (or any refugee) is the least any of us could do. After all, they're a fellow human being ...

In this photo Dragan shows us a big white bag that accompanies each refugee family on their flight to their third country. Because they don't have any documents (just a letter from the embassy), this clearly identifies them (origin, destination, number of people in their family, etc.). Along with this, and like all other passengers, they're only allowed to bring 20 kilograms and a carry-on. Imagine, settling to a third country - your new "home" with less than 50 pounds of your personal belongings?

If they come to the U.S. there are five points of entry - Los Angeles, Chicago, New York/JFK, Newwark and Miami - but they live in various places. Ian mentioned a distinct number of Burmese refugees living in Indianapolis.